It doesn't matter if you have been hit with economic bad times, have a "green" conscience, or just plain love the idea of Cloth Diapering. If you have access to a few spare bucks and a sewing machine you can easily start saving money, saving the environment, and satisifying your inner desires all at once.
Step 1: GATHER MATERIALS
Cloth Diapering is becoming a pretty big hit again. You can most likely find all the materials you need quickly and easily at your local craft store. My mom got me these diaper cuts for Christmas. Typically, I buy my fabric by the yard from
www.diapersewingsupplies.com (it's cheaper), but these diaper cut packs from Babyville make cutting your diaper pattern a little easier. The prices below indicate the prices for ONLY what you see used to make this type of diaper.
Here I am making a One-Size, All-In-One cloth diaper. This is a diaper that will grow with Katelyn, and does not require any insert stuffing.
PUL Fabric (Waterproof lining) 3pk = $14.99
Fold Over Elastic = $6.99
Snaps (bag) = $7.99
Snap Tool Set = $19.99
Thread (polyester) = $3.29
Scotch Tape = $1.00
Suede Cloth (keeps baby's skin dry) = $3.79/yd
Flannel (not pictured, soaker pad) = $1.27/half yd
Diaper Pattern= $0.99 (on-sale Hobby Lobby)
I used a diaper cover pattern from McCall's Pattern M6108. I cut it on the Medium size for the All-In-One diapers which still runs a little large to size.
Regular elastic width that I use is 1/4in
***********************************************
Step 2: Trace Diaper Pattern
You'll notice my pattern is not the thin easily torn brown pattern that you have. My mom taught me a VERY LONG time ago that I should always cut my patterns out onto a cloth before using them. I have traced this out on super cheap Muslin fabric. It is only $0.99/yd, and has saved me from having to buy new envelopes of the same pattern a hundred times over, but is not something you must do.
To start, you want to lay your PUL fabric out face up and fold it over the top to fit half of your diaper pattern on to. (Notice my pattern has the center line traced.) Put a piece of tape at the top, bottom, and in the middle of your pattern to keep it from shifting, and trace around your pattern onto the backside of the PUL fabric. I find that my diaper is more symetrically sound when I cut it this way.
Whalah! You are going to have extra PUL, do not throw it away. You'll be using a tiny bit of it with your snaps in just a moment, and just because you never throw good fabric away. Never know when that piece is going to come in handy for another project.
***NO PICTURE*** ===== BUT======
You are going to want to go ahead and cut your SUEDE CLOTH using your diaper pattern as well. This is going to serve as layer that will be next to the baby's skin wisking away the wetness to keep the skin dry.
*********************************************
Step 3: Mark Snaps Placement
Now, tape the top of your PUL down so you can keep it straight, and measure out the placement of your snaps. I try to center the ruler as best I can between my two ends, and start at 1 1/2 inches. I then place a mark every 1 inch from there till I reach the 10 1/2 inch mark at the other end.
If you are looking to make a One-Size diaper that will grow with the baby, then you'll need to add snaps below for sizing. I put my first row under the 3rd snap in on both sides with the top row, and then my third one is directly in the middle. I have made these exactly 1 inch apart, but I've made some that I put and inch and half between them. I haven't had to use the bigger sizes yet, so far an inch seems to be good spacing when I bring the bottom up for snapping. (This means my top two rows are sockets, and my lower row is caps.)
This is why you want to mark on the back and not the front. It is easy to get thrown off slightly and have random pen marks (notice my X's). This way no one see's if you have a hard time lining up your snaps. (I suggest making a pattern that has your snap positions already on it, so all you have to do is tape and poke.)
************************************
Step 4: Poke Holes
Now you want to go ahead and use the poker tool that came with your snap pliers, and open them spots up for the incoming snaps.
****************************
Step 5: Organize Your Snaps
You want to be sure you have your snaps organized for easy assembly. You don't want a variation of caps and sockets in the same role, because we all know a cap won't snap to another cap. You can choose to put either one in which ever role you choose. (The waist is one role, the flaps are the other.)
For this diaper I have 10 sockets (female) going across the top for my waist size.
**************************
Step 6: Cut Extra PUL & Poke it
I have cut enough of the extra PUL fabric to give me one square for each snap. This adds support to the fabric for snapping and unsnapping. You can also tape a piece of PUL across the area where the snaps are going to inserted, but I found this way to be the best for me.
*********************************
Step 7: Insert Snaps
Now, you want to put your stud through the PUL square you just cut, and then put it through your diaper from the backside of the fabric.
Once your stud is through the fabric slide the cap/socket (whichever you chose for the waist) on to the stud, and use your pliers to seal together (below).
Use caution when using the pliers. You want to be sure that your snap is centered perfectly on the bed of the pliers before you squeeze down. If it is not centered correctly, you risk breaking the butt of your snap and it trying to replace it can most easily rip your PUL fabric.
.
Your finished front should look similar to what I have here. Notice how I have the sizing snaps lined with the third snap in like I mentioned previously.
This is what your diaper should look like from the back. This is going to be hidden, so no worries about it not looking fabulous.
********************************
Step 8: Making the Soaker Pad
Your Soaker Pad is simple, and can be done with a wide variety of fabrics. I chose to purchase new Flannel that was on-sale from JoAnn Fabrics, but you can easily use old t-shirts, dish towels, bath towels, flannel shirts & sheets, recieving blankets... basically any cloth that absorbs liquid.
For this particular diaper, my soaker pad should be about 14 inches in length and just under 5 1/2 inches in width. I folded my fabric so that I have 4 layers of absorbent material.
Now, I sew around my soaker pad, being sure that I catch all four layers to prevent the fabric from bunching up in the wash.
***NO PICTURE**** (I can't believe I forgot this one, guess that happen when you keep stopping to play with the baby.) -
=====BUT=====
You are going to pin the soaker pad to the middle of the back side of the Suede Cloth. (The non-fuzzy side). With this you will try to sew as close to the edges as possible.
**********************************
Step 9: Preparing to Sew
Sewing PUL can be alittle tricky. You do NOT want to use pins because you'll be putting holes in your waterproof fabric! I have used paper binder clips before, but I have misplaced them. No worries, because a little Scotch Tape does the trick as well. You don't want to use too much tape, because you'll be taking it off as you sew. I usually tape in the center top and bottom of the diaper, on all rounded edges, and then one one each side of (what will be) the leg holes.
************************************
Step 10: Marking the Diaper
I have been known to sew my entire diaper closed when I get locked into a sewing trance. So, now I have the best way to prevent that is to mark my diaper. At the top on the what is the front half of the diaper I give myself about a 6 inch margin for flipping my diaper after stitching. Makring the open sapce as you see above. I will start sewing at the one mark, and finish around at the other mark.
Next, I mark my elastic when putting it on the inside of the diaper. You can see that I start and finish the leg elastic well into the flaps. (If I get around to making a printable diaper pattern for you, I will have this measured out) - Unfortunately, I just kind of "eye-ball" it. You also want to put elastic along the back of the diaper to help hold everything in and keep it from sliding up the back and all over that pretty outfit.
*********************************
Step 11: Sew the Diaper
Sew all the way around from your Open to Open marks. Straight stitch where there is no elastic, and zig-zag when using elastic. Be sure to back peddle when you first add the elastic to give it a secure hold for stretching. As you sew over the elastic, pull it tightly fromt the front and back to give you the most stetch for fit. (I am using Fold Over Elastic with this diaper, so I am not putting any inside the diaper.)
Just for fun... You can always tell when I have been sewing diapers by the scotch tape stuck to the side of my machine.
***********************************
Step 12: Turning the Diaper
Once you sew all the way around to your stopping OPEN mark,you're going to turn the diaper out the right way. .
Just use your fingers and push it through the opening.
It is important to make sure that you reach in there and get your corners all the way out, because once you seal it up it is very difficult to remove your stitch and fix it.
*************************
Step 13: Closing the Diaper/Top Stitch
Whether you go with FOE or the inner elastic, you need to close your diaper. This is simply done by folding a small amount of the top of each side into the diaper and stiching across to seal it closed.
If you used the inner elastic, continue stitching and give your diaper a nice Top Stitch to finish it off. (If you are using FOE - Keep reading)
*******************************
Step 14: Applying Fold Over Elastic
FOE is simple to use with a little practice keeping all your fabric inside it. I'm self-taught (and a little mom taught) when it comes to sewing, so I thought it is good to tell you that I haven't seen this method used anywhere, but I found that I feel more secure about pulling my elastic when done this way. basically, I stitch my starting point of FOE length wise once up and down like you see above. I start this on the backside, about even with where the inner leg curves in.
When stitching the FOE on the back and legs you want to pull it tightly from the front and the back to give it stretch. Stitch close to the bottom of the elastic for best pull and the best finished look. You don't want to pull the FOE around the flaps, or across the front of the diaper. Go slowly around your corners, it can take a little practice, so don't be too hard on yourself if it bunches up. It will still work. (See my goofs, below)
(bunching)
(Too High on my corner)
******************************
Step 15: Flap Snaps
Now fold your flap over the front of the diaper, and position your poker tool right in the center of a snap and make the hole for your first snap. Be sure not to put it too close to the outter part of the flap, but being sure you have anough room for a second snap behind it.
Our snaps are exactly one inch apart You can meausre an inch back and put a second snap there, or you can do it like I do, and snap the first snap to the diaper, and feel for the inner part of the following snap and just put the hole right there while my first snap is still closed. (This helps me know I have my flap snaps in the perfect position.) Complete on both sides, and your DONE!
